Which side of a nut goes on first?
The thin nut should be placed on the bolt first. This nut is typically tightened to between 25% to 50% of the overall tightening torque. The second (thick) nut is then placed on the bolt and the thin nut held to prevent rotation by a spanner whilst the thick nut is tightened to the full torque value.
Most lock nuts are used the same way traditional nuts are; by simply fastening them to the opposite side of a bolt. The locking action activates after the nut is fastened down.
In my experience if you are not using pal nuts put the square side down . if you are using them put the beveled side down as the pal nut gets a better grip against a flat surface. On curved washers The beveled side goes down always.
- Unscrew any fasteners from the bolt on top of the lock nut. ...
- Grip the lock nut in the jaws of pliers or a wrench, and gently turn it counter-clockwise at least one-eighth of a turn. ...
- Grip the loosened lock nut between your thumb and forefinger, and unscrew it all the way.
If there is only one washer used with a nut/bolt, it usually goes on the nut side. The nut in most circumstances is more movable, and is more commonly turned to tighten the assembly. The washer helps prevent damage to the surface of the object being fastened.
There is no requirement governing the entering direction of the bolt. Some people feel that bolts should be installed with the head up so that a loosened bolt will not fall from the hole. However, a falling nut is nearly as dangerous as a falling bolt, and a bolt without a nut should not be relied on to carry the load.
The lock washer should be placed under your threaded fastener - i.e., underneath a nut or the head of a screw or bolt. In assemblies where you have a nut and a bolt, the washer should be placed between the nut and the head of the bolt. You can then tighten the threaded fastener as normal.
To loosen a nut or bolt that won't come off, start by spraying the connection with penetrating oil. Allow the oil to soak in for a time, then try loosening it with a wrench. To allow for more torque on the nut or bolt, slip a piece of metal pipe over the handle of the wrench to give you more leverage when turning it.
They are able to be reused, but only if the prevailing torque meets certain specifications. Lock Nuts with a Nylon Insert are perhaps the most reliable lock nut, as it is only limited by the temperature of the application it has been used in.
Simply grab a can of WD-40, silicon-based lubricant, graphite spray, or a dry lubricant and spray it into the keyway. Once it has been sprayed, insert the key so the lubricant will work into the locking mechanism.
What is the proper procedure in bolt installation?
- Clean the flange faces and check for defects such as burrs and dents.
- Give all bolts and nuts a visual inspection, looking for corroded or damaged threads. Replace whenever necessary.
- Lubricate the nuts and bolts, which reduces friction during the tightening sequence.
Typical nuts, screws, bolts, bottle caps, and jar lids are tightened (moved away from the observer) clockwise and loosened (moved towards the observer) counterclockwise in accordance with the right-hand rule.
Rubber washers and gaskets are essential in the fastening industry when they are used with traditional fasteners like nuts, bolts, and screws; the rubber components provide extra sealing protection against the environment and foreign substances.
Gluing the nut is not completely necessary, the pressure of the strings and the friction between the nut and neck will hold it in place. However, you can use a few drops of white wood glue to fix it in place to prevent it falling off when changing strings.
Traditional nuts simply consist of a basic threaded hole, so constant exposure to vibrations can knock them loose from the bolt on which they are placed. Lock nuts protect against loosening, however, by featuring a design that increases the nut's resistance to vibrations.